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In the presence of Old Growth, aerosols of energy from another time infuse the air and remind us of their presence long before our existence. Cascading rings scribed inside of stumps that have stood in one place for centuries tell us stories of fires, infestations, and storms. Each concentric circle represents another year of maturation and life. 

Growth rings, the manifestos of yesteryear, appear on our dining tables, oftentimes constructed of these ancient beings. Their lives continue to sustain ours with the stories and the foods making up the feasts we share on them. 

Often, Old Growth ecosystems are viewed as being in balance with nature because they’ve been supposedly untouched by humans. However, for thousands of years, humans have involved ourselves in cycles of reciprocity with many life-forms we have come to consider food. We have been required to navigate our food system with great care and caution to keep on living. As a result, we have perfected practices that have been passed down through generations. We have refined recipes that contain ingredients representing species that predate woolly mammoths and dinosaurs. 

The oysters, geoduck, and crabs my Coast Salish people harvest, for example, have been on this Earth for millions of years. Archeological evidence shows the cultivation of fruits like cranberries, the maintenance of salmon runs, and the harvesting of hazelnuts dating back more than 10,000 years. This reminds us that Old Growth does not only apply to forest ecosystems; the term can represent ancient exchanges far older than mere centuries. We have the ability—and the responsibility—to ensure these relationships continue long after we are gone. 

But our tables today bear little evidence of Old Growth. Humankind has never been so far removed from the kinship and origins of our food as we are now. 

We are accelerating environmental threats to Old Growth foods. For example, between 2018 and 2021, marine heat waves have contributed to the from the Bering Sea. In meadows of high mountain huckleberries—a crop my Ancestors have cultivated for thousands of years—not only is an invasive fruit fly becoming increasingly prevalent, but scientists have projected that the wild huckleberry’s current suitable range in the Pacific Northwest by the end of this century, a direct outcome of increased emissions that contribute to increased temperatures. Our ring of life shows that modern foodways forget ancestral memories. 

Still, life continues to invite us to take a seat at the Old Growth table. How do we want to show up? How will we contribute to the living legacy of our foods and humanity? At the Old Growth table, we honor the ingredients as the wisdom keepers they are. And we humbly nod to the Ancestors who have kept our birthrights and lifeways intact. Now, it is our turn to carry that knowledge, stoke the eternal fire, and contribute to Old Growth life to come.  

Salish Snack Mix 

In addition to providing energy while traveling, harvesting, or hiking, this mix reminds me of the flavor of my homeland. It feeds my ancestral memories, and that is such a delicious gift. 

Combine equal parts blueberries, cranberries, and/or currants with hazelnuts, sunflower seeds, and/or pumpkin seeds in a bowl. (You can substitute any combination of nuts, seeds, and dried fruit local to your region.)

Nuts and seeds are healthier when consumed raw, but if you choose to roast them, place them on a cookie sheet in the oven at 300 degrees F until they are fragrant.

Store the mix in a dry, cool place.